It is sometimes said that the big cats are poor mothers, but it should always be remembered that the task of raising cubs is not an easy one.

A leopard and her cub playing in Botswana.

Mother leopards have to leave their cubs almost every day in order to go hunting.  Very young cubs have to stay behind where the mother leaves them and very quickly learn to wait.  There are a number of other animals that will kill and eat very young leopard cubs, including pythons, baboons and hyenas.  Despite the serious challenges and dangers involved, there are many mother leopards that do a good job of looking after their cubs.  Some even find the time and energy to spend playing with their cubs.

We currently have just such a female in the game drive area around At Savuti Camp in Botswana’s far north Linyanti region.  At the time of these images, the cub is approximately five months old and very playful.

A young leopard plays with her mom's tail.

I recently managed to spend some time watching the pair after the female had killed an impala and carried it up a tree.  Both mom and daughter had full stomachs and were asleep when I arrived at the sighting.  As the afternoon came to an end, the cub decided that it was no longer time to sleep and set about trying to wake her mother.  The cub was particularly fascinated by her mother’s tail and attacked it continuously.  The tolerant mother leopard at first tried to ignore her daughter, but when this failed, she gave in and began to play.

Mom and daughter enjoying some play time.

The next day when the two cats had completely finished their meal and were walking away, the cub again took to playfully attacking her mother, who responded with enthusiasm, as the images show.

For me it is always a privilege to witness this special bond that exists between mother and cub.

Text and images by Grant Atkinson
GrantAtkinson.com

Trying to guess the age of an animal can be an interesting exercise. Reference works indicate that in the wild, lions and leopards can reach approximate ages of between eleven and seventeen years. This is a fairly short life span when you consider that they are quite large animals.

One of the most reliable methods of getting some idea of the age of a big cat is to look at the condition of its teeth. This is often easier than you would think, as many of the cats are very relaxed and will allow close approaches by vehicles. Lions and leopards yawn often and this allows one a chance to check their teeth, either with binoculars or by snapping a photo.

The images that accompany this text were all chosen for their illustrative purpose rather than their aesthetic value.

Lion yawning - all teeth present and still sharp.

In the first image, a male lion is finishing off a big yawn. His four large canine teeth all still have sharp, albeit slightly rounded tips. He still has all his incisor teeth. The only sign of aging is some darkening of the enamel at the base of his canines. That typically starts once the cats are older than five years of age.

Lion yawning - one canine broken and some incisors are missing.

The second image is a male lion with mouth open. This lion has broken off the end of his left upper canine and that same tooth is showing signs of discoloration and cracking. He has also lost some of the incisors in his lower jaw. Judging by this, he would be an older animal than the first lion or one further along in his life cycle at least.

The last image is of a male leopard yawning. He has all his incisors, but has broken his lower right canine.

Leopard yawning - one broken canine, but all incisors are present.

A broken tooth does not necessarily mean big trouble for these animals; it is all part of a cumulative aging process. Big cats that are forced to scavenge more often are likely to damage their teeth on bones sooner than those living in prey-rich areas. Teeth are important for killing and dismembering prey, as well as for fighting with rivals of their own or other species.

In extreme cases, big cats that have badly damaged three or more canine teeth may be forced to seek out smaller and weaker prey animals that are easier for them to kill.

Text and images by Grant Atkinson
GrantAtkinson.com

Warthogs have sharp, penetrating tusks in their lower jaws. Zebra have sharp hooves, a powerful kick and can bite hard. Buffalo are legendary self-defenders, and have horns and bulk in lethal combination. Porcupines have sharp quills that they jab into the flesh of an attacker.

Lioness with a large belly wound.

On a recent safari I was reminded of just how well some prey animals can defend themselves by observing the injuries that were apparent on some of the big cats that we saw.

At Savuti Camp in Botswana’s Linyanti region, a lone lioness was sporting a big, ugly wound on her belly. Although the wound was clean and in the process of healing, it must have caused her some very serious discomfort. My colleagues from the camp had seen the lioness in an uninjured state one day, following a small herd of buffalo. Next morning she had the injury, so it seems safe to assume that she ended up getting a buffalo horn in her side. Fortunately she seemed to be recovering well at the time that I took the accompanying image, and not causing her any trouble.

Leopard with a shoulder wound, perhaps inflicted by a warthog.

A territorial male leopard busy patrolling his territory along the Linyanti River near DumaTau Camp had a deep gash on his left shoulder. You can just see it in the image above. This particular male is well-known by the guides in the area for his habit of hunting warthogs and it was quite possible that his injury could have come from one of those feisty pigs. This was a month back, but as of the time of this writing the wound is almost completely healed.

Lioness with a porcupine quill in her cheek.

Still in the Linyanti region of Botswana, I saw a lioness with a full belly, and a porcupine quill stuck in her cheek. With some luck, this quill might fall out, but it could also remain embedded in her flesh and cause serious infection.

Fortunately the big cats have strong immune systems, and they heal fast, so in most cases they will heal themselves from their wounds.

Text and images by Grant Atkinson
GrantAtkinson.com

September 3-15, 2011
Safari Leaders: Andy Biggs and James Weis

Mountain gorilla baby

In September 2011, Andy Biggs and James Weis will lead a private group of photographers to Kenya and Rwanda. The safari will focus on photographing the critically endangered mountain gorillas of Rwanda and the amazing array of predators and herds in Kenya’s Masai Mara. This safari combines some of Africa’s finest wildlife photography experiences, superb accommodation, and expert guiding. We have selected these two locations in order to create a private safari geared specifically toward serious photography and game viewing.

"Silverback" mountain gorilla in Rwanda

Safari Highlights
• Three private treks to photograph the endangered mountain gorillas in Rwanda. Group sizes for these treks are 8 people only, so we will have two groups of eight for each day in Rwanda. Once we reach the gorilla family, our time is limited to one hour only, so we will spend three days in Rwanda.
• Spending time in the company of the lovely mountain gorillas is perhaps one of the most dramatic, thrilling and poignant wildlife experiences possible.
• Expert guides will accompany us for the gorilla treks. We will also have the services of trackers (who will locate the gorillas) and porters to help carry gear.
• Game drives in the private Olare Orok Conservancy (where our camp is located), bordering the Masai Mara to the north. Unlike the Mara itself, this reserve is private to the very few camps located here, so we will not experience the larger crowds present inside the Mara proper. This said, we will have the option of driving into the Mara each day if we decide to, although the game viewing is as good or better in the Orok. We will also have the option of returning to camp after dark since we are not subject to the rules of the National Park.
• We have private vehicles for the Kenya safari game drives, with only 1 person per row of seating (the vehicles have either 2 or 3 rows behind the driver, plus a seat next to the driver if you want to be lower down to the ground.) The vehicles are open 4×4 vehicles, allowing for unhindered movement for photography.
• Private and exclusive use of the safari camp in Kenya and the gorilla lodge in Rwanda.
• Safari is limited to 14 participants, plus Andy and James.
• Private air charters between Nairobi and our private camp in the Masai Mara region.
• Extra luggage allowances to accommodate the special needs of our photographic equipment. The Nairobi-Mara charter flights will allow for an average of 288 pounds per person (including body weight). For Rwanda, we will get quite close to the gorillas, so only a mid-range zoom and a wide angle lens are recommended. We have a secure storage lockup in Nairobi to leave behind our long lenses and other equipment during our journey to Rwanda. The weight allowance for our flights between Nairobi and Rwanda is 66 pounds (luggage only) plus a carry-on.
• This itinerary focuses on up-close and real wildlife experiences from the surroundings of premier accommodations.

Cheetah mom and cubs

IS THIS SAFARI FOR YOU?
Here are some key points to help you decide:
1. We welcome photographers of ALL levels. This safari will be conducive to learning from one another and offer an experience that will suit everyone’s photographic needs.
2. We are BIG on photographing in the field. We will spend most our time and effort on safari / photographic activities and making images.
3. Non-photographer or videographer spouses / travel companions will love this safari. The wildlife experiences on this trip will appeal to anyone with a love for animals and nature.

Maasai tribesmen

THE ITINERARY

03-04 September 2011; (1 night)
NORFOLK HOTEL – Nairobi, Kenya

On your arrival in Nairobi, you will be met by our local representative, who will assist you across the terminal and to check in at the hotel. We will meet up as a group and dinner will be at a nearby restaurant (cost of which is included).

The Norfolk Hotel has played a leading role in Kenya’s colorful history (the original being first opened in 1904) and it continues to be Nairobi’s finest and best-known luxury hotel. Today, the hotel offers accommodations in 165 guest rooms and suites, has eight conference rooms, a heated outdoor swimming pool, a health club with gym, sauna and steam room, a beauty salon, book shop and gift shops.

On the morning of the 4th, our group will transfer back to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport the next morning, where we catch our scheduled flight to Kigali, Rwanda.

04-07 September 2011; (3 Nights)
SABYINYO SILVERBACK LODGE – Virunga Mountains / Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge

On arrival in Kigali, we will be met by our local representatives, who brief us and then take us on a tour of the genocide memorial in Kigali. Afterwards we will proceed by road to Ruhengeri and Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, which we will occupy exclusively for the next three nights. Dinner at the lodge.

The lodge is situated in the foothills of the mighty Virungas, the chain of 15,000-ft volcanoes stretching through Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Accommodation comprises five double cottages, two suites and one family suite. All are stone buildings with Rwandese terra cotta tile roofs, and feature large sitting areas, fireplaces, stylish en-suite bathrooms finished with Venetian plaster, a dressing room and a sheltered veranda. Heat exchangers in the fireplaces provide a plentiful supply of hot water.

The main lodge building comprises reception, sitting room with snug area, dining room, library / games room, a responsible tourism / community awareness room, shop and bathrooms. Two patio areas afford wonderful and dramatic views to the Virunga Volcanoes and the surrounding lowland farmland.

Mountain gorilla family in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

05 September
• Early breakfast and drive to the park offices, where we will have a briefing by our trackers and then drive to the beginning of the trail.
• From there we will begin our trek up the path to meet up with the gorillas — (see important information on gorilla trekking below).
• Upon sighting the gorillas, we will stay with them for a magical hour before returning to the base where our driver will be waiting for us.
• Lunch at the Lodge.
• This afternoon we offer an optional tour to the ex-poachers’ village, where we will learn about the traditional methods of fire-making, archery, traditional medicine, traditional dances and other local customs.
• Dinner back at the Lodge.

06 September
• Up early again for our second morning up to see the gorillas, this time a different family of gorillas will be visited.
• Lunch at the Lodge.
• This afternoon we have the option of a visit to the nearby local markets or a scenic drive to visit the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo.
• Dinner back at the Lodge.

07 September
• Our third and last morning of gorilla trekking, where we will visit yet another family of gorillas.
• Lunch at the Lodge.
• This afternoon we drive to Kigali for an overnight.

Mountain gorilla in Rwanda

GORILLA TRACKING INFORMATION
The gorillas you will track in Volcanoes National Park will belong to one of five ‘habituated’ family groups, The Susa Group (38 individuals), The Sabinyo Group (11 individuals), Group Thirteen (18 individuals), the Amahoro A Group (15 Individuals), or the Umubano Group (8 Individuals). Eight permits per day are issued for each group. Gorilla groups tend to move around a lot and their home ranges often overlap.

For many years, these groups have undergone an extremely delicate process that has gradually made them used to the presence of humans and allowed a few privileged visitors to interact with them briefly in the wild.

The gorillas are by no means tame. They are completely wild animals, which even now tolerate human presence for an hour a day at most. Experienced guides will accompany you on your tracking, many of whom have been involved in the habituation process themselves. These guides will brief you in detail on your arrival on the various aspects of ‘gorilla etiquette’, but the information contained in this set of guidelines is to help you arrive for your track well prepared and ready to enjoy this unique opportunity to the full.

Visitors may track for as many days as they like, on purchase of the required number of gorilla permits. The permits are in extremely short supply, and are often booked as much as 18 months in advance. Only persons over the age of 15 are allowed to track the gorillas.

Gorilla tracking is a year-round activity, with no season as such. The rain forest is moist, and it rains very often in Volcanoes National Park, even in the dry season. Tracking commences every morning from the park headquarters at 8:30 AM. There is a daily maximum of 8 visitors to each gorilla group, and each group is accompanied by a guide and by porters who will carry your shoulder pack for you. The gorillas cover large distances overnight, and they are never constantly in one area. The guides will use their knowledge of the gorillas’ habits and information from the previous day to locate the group’s whereabouts.

Because of this, the time taken to track the gorillas varies enormously, from as little as half an hour to as much as 9 hours before returning to camp. The terrain is extremely difficult, with steep trails (often steeper than a flight of stairs) covered in dense vegetation that gives the park its name. In addition, the altitude of 5200 feet and more means participants do need to be physically fit to enjoy the track.

Once the gorillas are located, your group will be allowed a maximum of one hour with them. After this, you will return to the park headquarters and your camp.

Relaxed gorilla

07-08 September 2011; (1 Night)
KIGALI SERENA HOTEL – Kigali, Rwanda

Tonight we will stay at the Kigali Serena and dine at one of its restaurants.

Ideally located on one of Kigali’s most charming boulevards, the five-star Kigali Serena Hotel is built around a polished granite atrium, which showcases the very best of Rwandese cultural art. Relaxed yet elegant, the hotel centres on the Executive Lounge and Bar, which opens onto a wide sun deck overlooking the newly refurbished swimming pool. Also overlooking the pool, the popular Milima Restaurant offers a wide range of all-day buffet choices, while the relaxed Sokoni Café offers inside and outside pool side seating.

08-09 September 2011; (1 Night)
NORFOLK HOTEL – Nairobi, Kenya

This morning we will be transferred to the Kigali Airport in time to catch our scheduled flight back to Nairobi.

On arrival in Nairobi, we will be met and transferred back to the Norfolk Hotel, where we will overnight before heading on to the Masai Mara the next day.

Dinner is again at the hotel.

09-15 September 2011; (6 Nights)
MARA PLAINS CAMP – Olare Orok Conservancy, Masai Mara region, Kenya

Mara Plains Camp - main area

On the morning of the 9th, we will be transferred to Wilson Airport, where we will catch our private charter flight to Mara Plains Camp.

Mara Plains is located on the northern border of the Masai Mara Game Reserve in the Olare Orok Conservancy. Rarely a night passes without lion roaring nearby, while leopard are regularly found to wander through the camp and cheetah have established territories on the savannah off the main area.

Mara Plains Camp is a small, high quality, seven-roomed camp under canvas and on raised decks with sweeping views across Kenya’s notable savannahs. It is among the smallest and most personal camps in the Mara region. As one of just three camps currently operating within the Conservancy, which boasts the region’s lowest vehicle density, no mini-buses and only one guest room per 700 acres. It is possible to avoid the high tourist density of the Masai Mara Game Reserve proper, if desired.

No other camp in the greater Masai Mara Game Reserve or Olare Orok Conservancy has the privilege of traversing opportunities of Mara Plains Camp. Guests are able to traverse three areas as part of their stay at Mara Plains.

Walking at Mara Plains Camp

For the next six days we will have exclusive use of the camp, as well as five private vehicles at our disposal day and night. Since we have the entire camp at our disposal, there are no set camp schedules or meal times. Plans are tailored around the whims of the day, and as the wildlife dictates.

Typically, we rise just before dawn, have a quick bite, and head out at first light to see what has happened overnight. We look for tracks and signs of nocturnal activity, perhaps heading in the direction of the lion calls and hyena laughs we heard from bed. The big cats are usually quite active in the early hours. As the sun begins to rise in the sky, and the heat mounts, we head back to our mid-day resting post, Mara Plains Camp for a brunch and a bit of a siesta. Or, if guests prefer, it’s a lovely time sit quietly and bird on the river. Our guides will introduce us to the abundant bird life and can help you identify trees and local plant species, or sharpen our wildlife tracking skills.

Giraffe and sunset

In the late afternoon, as the sun wanes, we are off again in search of wildlife. It’s a time to savor the African sunset with refreshing sundowner drinks and snacks before continuing our drive as nocturnal animals become more active with dusk. A hearty dinner awaits us back at camp, whenever its time to return. We share stories of the day around the campfire and under the stars. So goes another blissful day in Africa.

We may also do full-day adventures to the Masai Mara Game Reserve. For full day expeditions, lavish picnic boxes with cold drinks are provided.

We will also have the opportunity to visit a local Masai village (or “Enkang” in Maa) to learn more about the traditions and culture of the surrounding community and photograph the people and their village.

Hot air balloon safaris are available (at extra cost). This is a very early morning activity, giving stunning views of the sunrise, the landscape and a sense of the sheer size of the Masai Mara region.

Wildebeests and cheetah

15 September 2011
Today we will catch our private charter flight back to Wilson Airport in Nairobi. On arrival, we will be met by our representatives and three separate vehicle at our disposal for the remainder of the day in Nairobi. International flights may be scheduled to depart that evening to home destinations. See note below regarding travel extensions.

NOTE: Customized extensions to this safari, including Amboseli National Park, additional safari nights in Kenya or Tanzania, Cape Town, Victoria Falls and other destinations may be arranged through Eyes on Africa as desired. Ask us for further information.

The "Great Migration"

COSTS
The cost of this all-inclusive safari is $14,950 per person. This fee includes all in-country ground and air transportation as well as hotel accommodation (double occupancy) and all meals (except as noted above and in exclusions below).

Note regarding gorilla trekking permits: At present the cost of a permit (which covers a single trek) is US$500. Any increase in the cost of permits before the time we purchase them will passed through to the guest.

Please note: We will attempt to adhere to this itinerary as much as possible. However, certain conditions (political, climatic, environmental, cultural, or wildlife migrations) may necessitate changes in the itinerary. We reserves the right to alter any itinerary at any time, if necessary. We will attempt to notify participants of changes as far in advance as possible. Costs incurred by such changes will be the responsibility of the participant.

INCLUSIONS & EXCLUSIONS
WHAT IS INCLUDED
• Accommodation on a shared basis (singles only available in Nairobi and Kigali on a limited basis and at extra cost).
• 2x trip leaders (Biggs, Weis).
• 3 guided gorilla treks in Rwanda, including porters and guides.
• 5x private safari vehicles in Masai Mara camp
• Luggage allowance Nairobi-Kigali: 30kgs plus carry-on.
• Luggage allowance Mara charters (2 caravans): 288 pounds including body weight.
• All safari activities and transfers to/from the airports and the hotels.
• Daily laundry.
• Olare Orok / Mara North Conservancy fees and Masai Mara Game Reserve fees.
• Meet & Assist service on arrival in Nairobi.
• All meals and drinks in Nairobi and Kigali.
• All meals and drinks at Mara Plains Camp.
• All meals and wines, beers and soft drinks at Sabyinyo.
• Round-trip airfare: Nairobi to Rwanda.
• Round trip private air charter: Nairobi to Mara Plains Camp.
• The current Tourism Levies and all relevant Value Added Tax or Government Sales Tax .
• One row per guest on game drive vehicles at Mara Plains – (note that the front seat next to the driver is also counted as a row for this purpose).
• Kigali Genocide Memorial tour.
• Visit to ex-poachers’ village in Rwanda.
• Visit to market or Twin Lakes in Rwanda.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED
• International airfare and/or other transportation between your home and Nairobi.
• Visas
• Travel Insurance
• Personal purchases (including curios, spirit liquors, telephone calls etc.)
• Gratuities for guides and hotel staff, except for gorilla treks, for which tips are included.
• Pre- and post- safari tours and meals or accommodation before or after the safari

Wildebeest and Nile crocodile

HOW DO I SIGN UP?
Our group size is limited to 14 participants, so space is limited. If this exciting safari has your name on it and you’re excited by the thought of joining on this trip, then now is the time to register. Remember, there will be limited space available for this safari and when the spots are spoken for, that’s it. If you have any questions before registering, send an e-mail with any inquiries to james@eyesonafrica.net or simply call us (800-457-9575) and ask to speak to James Weis or Nicky Glover.

The Okavango Delta in particular is an area that is well-known for sightings of big cats moving through water.  What I find most fascinating though, is seeing the behavior of big cats in a place that once was completely dry, and is now again a wetland.  The return of water to the Savute channel provided us with this opportunity.

Lions from the DumaTau pride in northern Botswana cross the flowing Savute channel - Copyright © James Weis / Eyes on Africa.

The Savute channel dried up in the early 1980’s, and the only water around for years was that found in pans and rain-fed pools.

In 2006 it showed some very sporadic signs of revival, with water just beginning to push down into the old grassland covered channel bed…, but then a year later the water came back in earnest.  Today the once-dry riverbed is a deep, flowing channel, and a home to catfish, papyrus and hippopotamus.

Lions running in the water of the Savute channel - Copyright © James Weis / Eyes on Africa.

The local lion pride, known as the DumaTau pride, had their territory neatly bisected by the revived channel.  This provided us with a chance to see just how quickly the big cats are able to adapt to such a change.  One could have expected young lions here to have been very nervous of entering deep water, as they would have had no prior experience of it.

DumaTau lions playing in deep water - Copyright © James Weis / Eyes on Africa.

Instead, these lions have shown this to not be the case at all.  The photographs here show lions from the DumaTau pride, crossing the Savute channel.  Not only are they clearly not afraid of the water, but they are actually chasing and playing with each other, and appear to be enjoying it.  Instinct never ceases to amaze me!

Male lion crossing water - Copyright © James Weis / Eyes on Africa.

Text by Grant Atkinson
GrantAtkinson.com

Images copyright © James Weis / Eyes on Africa

There were so many highlights, but the biggest of them all was without a doubt seeing wild dog pups in our traversing area for the first time in more than seven years. The pack of six African Wild Dogs moved back into our area last week and luckily for us, they moved their den site deep into our area. I had a fantastic sighting of three adult dogs and seven puppies at their den site.

African Wild dog puppies

The lion sightings have yet again been phenomenal and we saw lions almost daily. The Ximungwe pride of lions introduced us to another four cubs, which now brings the total cubs in this pride to seven. On an afternoon safari my guests and I had an incredible sighting of six cubs, all competing to nurse from a single female.

Lion cubs fighting for position with mom

The coalition of male lions known as the “Mapogos” was seen frequently and spent three days feeding on a huge buffalo they caught in the Sand River. After the lions moved off, we enjoyed great sightings of scavengers including hooded vultures and a lone spotted hyena.

One of the "Mapogos"

Male lion shaking off the water

Male lion feeding

Not to be outdone by the other predators, the leopard sightings were also frequent and we viewed and photographed several different individuals. My favourite images of the “spotted cats” for the last week were of two different males seen on safari.

Leopard "chilling"

Backlit Leopard

The golden morning light offered us some great photographic opportunities and transformed animals that are normally difficult to photograph, like white rhino, into great photographic subjects. I was fortunate to see three young male rhinos waking up one morning completely covered by thousands of little midges.

White rhino and midges

Birding was also great and even though the summer migrants are long since departed, various raptors and the ever present Lilac-breasted Rollers provided us some great bird photography.

Bateleur Eagle

Lilac-breasted Roller

Plains game including Burchell’s zebra, wildebeest and giraffe were also abundant and provided my guests with one of the most holistic safari experiences that Africa has to offer.

Zebras grazing

Until Next Time

Specialist Safari Guide and Wildlife Photographer Marius Coetzee
For more of Marius, see his Facebook page.

I spent the last week of May guiding out of Mombo camp.  It is a time of year in the Delta which brings with it very comfortable temperatures, with cool mornings and gentle warm mid-days.

The vegetation at Mombo was still green and quite lush after our excellent rainy season.  Water levels in some of the seasonal channels that fringe the area were very high.   However, the only effect that this had on the game-viewing was to drive many of the grazing animals onto the higher-lying parts of the game-drive areas.

A lioness watches and listens as dusk falls, and she slowly begins to get ready for the evenings activity. This imagewas taken at Mombo camp, Okavango Delta, Botswana.

The wildlife highlights during the week were many.  They began with a sighting of lions:  The Mathata sub-pride with their cubs, two afternoons in a row.  On our second sighting a couple of the lionesses with their cubs really posed for us on a termite mound.  We saw the cubs playing, flexing claws and the whole pride slowly getting ready for the evening hunt.  We also saw the coalition pair of males that spend time with this pride, the Western Boys.  One of them stole an impala from a leopard.

Leopard cub at Mombo camp.

It was in fact the leopards that stole the show during the week.  First the female who had lost the impala to the lion posed in a tree for us.  Then, the female leopard known as Legadima showed up with her two cubs and an impala kill.  The cubs are almost four months old and are incredibly cute.  They kept us totally entertained.  They climbed trees, chased one another about, and jumped from one branch to another, at times almost falling and catching themselves by one paw at the last second.

A leopard cub, one of two, belonging to an adult female that has long been resident in the Mombo area of Botswana's Okavango Delta.

When the impala carcass was half-eaten, the mother leopard pulled it up into a jackalberry tree.  Overnight a group of spotted hyenas showed up.  For almost a whole day the hyenas were at the base of the tree.  What little was left of the impala carcass was just out of their reach, and the two little leopard cubs were seemingly trapped, higher up in the same tree.  Eventually a hyena managed to reach the impala and pulled it down.  Shortly after eating the remains, the hyena left and to our relief the mother leopard showed up.  She collected the two cubs, totally unharmed, and they moved off together.

One of the leopard cubs posing on a tree branch.

We also enjoyed several sightings of the lone African wild dog at Mombo.  This dog has lost the other members of its pack and is now socializing with groups of black-backed jackals.  We saw the dog heading off on hunting forays with the jackals in tow.  This is most unusual behavior, but serves to show how strong the dogs’ social instincts are.

A lone African wild dog searches for prey at Mombo in the Okavango Delta, Botswana. These dogs typically hunt at dusk, as this one is preparing to do, and again at dawn.

Mombo's 'lone' wild dog, which is associating with jackals.

Spotted hyena, buffalo and hippo close to camp were further highlights, and we also had excellent viewing of both breeding herds of elephants with youngsters, as well as some very big, old bulls, who were competing for courting rights with an estrous female.

Black rhino at Mombo camp.

The week’s game-viewing was rounded off by a single sighting of rhino, which was again unusual in that we located a group of three white rhino, accompanied by an adult female black rhino.  The two species don’t typically spend time together, although there is no reason that they shouldn’t, as both feed on different types of vegetation.  Although brief, we had a good sighting.

A group of elephants, both male and female, photographed at Mombo, in the Okavango Delta, Botswana.

I had a great week at Mombo watching and photographing these fascinating sightings, and it has left me looking forward a whole lot to my next visit, which will take place in July 2010.

For more of Grant’s photography, check out his website.

Sorry about the delay on updates from the Timbavati, things have been busy here! (Especially with our Wedding planning…). I got married to Melissa, our Head Therapist at camp, on 04 April 2010 and had very little time afterward to sort through my photographs.

I’m back on track now and here follows a brief update on some happenings.

Ntombi, the leopardess I reported to be pregnant (in my last update), has given birth to cubs somewhere close to the camp. We haven’t seen much of them yet, but we know there is at least one little baby. She still hunts frequently close to the camp and she often visits us in camp for a drink of water at the rock pool under the coffee deck.

Ntombi looking for prey

Rockfig Jr. and her two cubs (now almost 6 months old) are doing great. We have seen them on three kills recently and their little bellies seem “full” every time we see them. The cubs are surely the two most entertaining leopard cubs I’ve encountered in my 10 years of guiding in the reserve. The little boy is also a very “brave” one… I have now recorded him stalking adult giraffe, buffalo and elephant. Just some curiosity and sharpening of skills!

Rockfig Jr. looking at the cubs

Some loving from mom

Rockfig Jr and her cubs

Little Boy

Little Girl

Kuhanya (a female) had a great strike rate over the last few weeks and in a matter of ten days we saw her on three adult impala kills!

Kuhanya resting

Kuhanya staring at impalas

The Xakubasa pride of lions was missing for nearly two weeks.

They are back now and entertained us with some magical sightings over the last week. The young ones were playing in a marula tree and kept trying to bite and swipe at each other’s legs to drop them out. Recently the lionesses killed two adult female kudus and this kept them occupied for nearly three days.

The two white girls

Walking to mom

Playful cubs

Playing in the tree

Clear colour difference!

The one Machaton lioness has given birth to a single cub, which is now about six weeks of age. Let’s hope it survives…

Machaton female's new cub

We were lucky to see an Southern African python out on drive one morning. It was about 9-10 feet long! The snake went up into a tree and was quite happy to pose for us.

Southern African python

A pack of 15 African wild dogs came through for a quick visit! Sightings of this endangered predator are always spectacular and this time was no exception. They killed an impala and devoured it in less than eight minutes! There are only about 200-300 wild dogs left in the greater Kruger (that includes the Timbavati). They are the second most endangered predator in Africa, after the Ethiopian wolf.

African wild dogs feeding

More pictures taken over the last few weeks at Kings Camp:

Elephant bull

Young male leopard eating

Two white rhinos

Lionesses at sunset

Lilac-breasted roller

I’ll be back with more updates again soon!

Regards,
Morné Hamlyn (Kings Camp – Field Guide)

My wife Vanessa and I just spent a phenomenal weekend at Kings Camp in the Timbavati Reserve.

Our guide, Colbert, was one of the most enthusiastic guides I have came across in more than 10 years in the safari industry. He had a great sense of humour and loved sharing his vast knowledge of Africa. Our first “big” sighting was of a herd of buffalo numbering more than 400 individuals drinking at a dam. After viewing and photographing these large bovids for some time, we left in search of some Timbavati lions.

Lioness at dusk

Unfortunately we never had a chance to see the famous “white” lions of the Timbavati, but we had a great sighting of one of the “Timbavati Boys” (a coalition consisting of 3 males) and 2 females. We watched the felines gracefully wake up and begin their evening hunt.

We woke up with great excitement the next morning and after a cup of hot coffee, we headed out on our second drive. Colbert and his tracker Sam found fresh tracks of a rhino bull and after tracking this massive beast for some time, we came across this magnificent specimen of a rhino. We viewed and photographed him marking his territory and then headed off in search of some predators.

White Rhino marking his territory

Minutes later we watched a beautiful female leopard sitting high up a Marula tree. Every now and then something caught her attention and she would sit up and stare into the distance, providing us with some great photographic opportunities.

Female Leopard

That afternoon we departed on our afternoon safari with anticipation of some more wildlife sightings and we were not disappointed… Shortly after leaving camp we came across a very heavily pregnant female leopard. We followed her for some time while she walked through the bush and she eventually led us straight to an impala carcass that she had apparently killed a couple of days earlier.

Our next sighting was of a hyena at a small waterhole, perfectly back-lit by the afternoon sunset.

Spotted Hyena

After our sun downer, sipping Gin and Tonics while watching the African sun setting over the savanna, we headed back to camp. On our way back we came across another female leopard and her two 7-month-old cubs at a small waterhole. The cubs caused great excitement and watching these little cats was definitely a highlight of our stay.

Swainson's Spurfowl

On our last morning we awoke to the most impressive sound in the African bush, rain!! We decided to spend the morning enjoying our spacious and comfortable room and after yet another great breakfast, we headed for home.

Marius Coetzee
For more of Marius’ photography, check out his blog.

Leopards
Two of the female leopards on our traversing area are bringing a lot of excitement to our game drives. ‘Ntombi’ is a 4-5 year-old female that is showing signs of readiness to give birth to her first litter of cubs! This is great news for us, as the area around the camp is the core of her territory. This means that she will probably have the cubs somewhere close by in the river bed.

Ntombi on 'lookout' from a Marula tree.

Following Ntombi on Game drive.

The second female is known as ‘Rockfig Junior’. She is about 6 years old now and her first litter of two cubs are growing up fast now. They are now 4 months old and are very entertaining to watch on our safaris. She has one male and one female cub. I’ll keep you posted on future sightings of them.

Rockfig Jr - The proud mother.

Rockfig Jr. dragging a kill to cover.

Mum cleaning one of the cubs.

Siblings playing.

Lions
The ‘Xakubasa’ (pronounced “shakubasa” – meaning “white ones”) pride has provided a lot of great viewing. Two youngsters in the pride are white lions and it is the first time in years that we are again seeing white lions, something that made the Timbavati safari region famous in the 1970’s. The effect is known as ‘leukism’ (recessive genes) and is not ‘albinism’, as one would perhaps think.

The Xakubasa pride resting at Hide dam.

One of the white lions next to a tawny cousin.

White lion.

The adult lionesses watching an injured Cape buffalo.

The kill. Light was bad at 7pm.

The youngsters are not keen on the water.

The ‘Timbavati Boys’, a three-male coalition in the south, are spending lots of time back with the remaining three lionesses of the ‘Machaton’ pride. We suspect that one female has given birth and I will update on this in a future post. The 6-year-old female did mate with one of ‘the Boys’ not long ago, so hopefully we’ll have a few cubs to report about in the next few months.

Timbavati male and Machaton lioness.

Mahlatini male from the northern coalition.

Sightings of Cape buffalo, White rhino and Elephants are prolific and the general game sightings have been good as well.

Cape buffalo.

White Rhino bull.

White Rhinos drinking water.

Elephant dust.

Elephant bull.

Zebra and wildebeests on the grasslands.

Spotted hyena cubs.

Looking forward to giving you many more updates from the Timbavati!

Kind Regards,
Morné Hamlyn – Kings Camp guide.